Dior’s Haute Couture AW 2018 collection breathes functionality, art, philosophy & couture all at once.
Hot off the heals of the “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams”, at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs which placed the spotlight on Dior’s haute couture creations throughout the decades, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection continues to pay a direct and honest tribute to the timeless of the ateliers of haute couture.
Haute couture offers the opportunity to wear a quality that’s unique, to adapt a perfect work to one’s own body. Maria Grazia Chiuri returns to the fundamentals and designs suits in which the Bar jacket develops batwing sleeves.
Though haute couture is typically synonymous with the luxury of being able to afford quasi-unique sumptuous pieces of avant-garde fashion, it is easy to forget that the haute couture process is quite strictly governed by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture with its own rules and stipulations.
Working with these rules while breaking out with original and unique designs that will thrill and fascinate is the challenge season upon season.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s outlet in this collection, despite her loyalty to the classic original Dior lines, cinched waists and batwing sleeves are the textured and natural fabrics with their own movement and language.
The deep autumnal colours and rich natural fabrics are the yang to the yin of the hyper feminine sensual lines the dresses and in particular the outerwear looks carry.
The fabrics are produced in age-old mills that can only weave a few meters at a time and which have been tasked with introducing an unusual element or a new aspect of savoir-faire to the fabric.
The powdery palette (brick, green, pink and orange) interacting with nude, colours the clothes but also the accessories, veil and hats in a complementary continuity of the body on which couture places the emphasis.
Evening dresses, rendered dazzling by their mix of pleating and layering, contrast with simple bustiers which offer a surprising dissonance.
The sculptural form of a red silk dress sewn from a single piece of fabric opens the way to a series of majestic and intimate creations, both restrained and explosive: couture, in the process, becoming a psychological place of female resistance.
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